And I do – from the free dancing waters spectacular at the Bellagio to the totally over-the-top casinos I stared, strolled, and loved it.

But after the shows, the gambling, the walking and gawking, there are places and experiences that are off the Strip, but on the list of things to see and do.

Neon Museum - The Boneyard

In an barren lot not far from the Las Vegas strip that spawned them is a huge smiling duckling, a giant pool player, towering slippers, and immense golden nuggets. These, and more, are the still proud remains of vintage signs that once beckoned visitors. No longer wanted by the businesses that commissioned them, they are carefully propped up throughout the two lots that make up the Boneyard of the Neon Museum in Las Vegas. “Vegas is known for imploding much of its history,” notes Melanie Coffee Operations Manager of the Neon Museum. “But this is where history lies,” she says gesturing to the tangle of old icons.

The collection was actually started by YESCO (Young Electric Sign Company) - a family owned business began by Thomas Young in 1920. By 1948 YESCO was installing neon extravaganzas up and down the Las Vegas strip and creating landmarks along the way. Eventually their innovative and award-winning signs began appear all over the country -- Sahara Hotel, Caesar’s Palace, Epcot, Hard Rock, and more.

YESCO would often lease their signs rather than sell them, so when the logos were decommissioned they would revert back to the company that made them. Aware of their unique heritage, and proud of their innovative designs YESCO, began to store some of their favorites.

Soon the number of rescued signs exceeded the storage space, and as the word spread that the old classics had been saved, more and more people sought permission to visit. Rather than go into the museum business, YESCO helped start and support a group that did have that as their mission.

The Neon Museum started in 1997 with the goal of collecting, refurbishing and exhibiting that classic Las Vegas art form – the neon sign. A tour of The Boneyard makes it clear that the advertising has become not only a part of popular culture, but a form of public art. If the Neon Museum has its way, these icons will return to former glory, providing a glimmer of the vintage Las Vegas.

Happily, The Boneyard will soon have a wider audience when their visitors center opens by 2009. The historic La Concha Motel Lobby is a perfect example of 1960s architecture with its distinctive swooping shell-shape. It was saved from the wrecking ball by the Doumani family who owned the original motel and donated the building to the Neon Museum. It is this historic structure that will soon welcome visitors to a piece of the history of Las Vegas.

The ephemeral pop culture of Las Vegas gathered in a small corner of town is there by the efforts of those companies, and a public that has fallen in love with the art of neon and plastic that characterizes Las Vegas. Anyone interested in helping the restoration process can contact the Neon Museum for more information.

Liberace Museum and the Wes Winters Tribute Show

Fans of the king of over the-top-costumes and flying fingers will probably know to head to this quirky venue. But you don’t have to love Liberace to find yourself clapping and stomping with the music of Wes Winters.

Winters must be channeling Liberace in this show that is alternately flamboyant, touching, and impressive. Watching the intricate fingering on a separate screen left the audience, as well as the pianist breathless. He’s got the famed showman’s mannerisms and the physically demanding playing.

In between the tunes Wes explains his history and how a small town musician came to be playing Liberace in Las Vegas. Enthralled by Liberace’s performance on television, Wes started practicing 4 to 5 hours a day. He learned through listening, and playing by ear. Next it was entering and winning a play alike competition sponsored by the Liberace Foundation, and eventually proposing the tribute show in an unused space, which is now the Wes Winter Theater. He’s been doing the tribute show since 2003.

There is nothing subtle about Wes Winter’s playing or performance – it’s piano as an athletic event with whirling hands, glittery white Liberace type tux, lots of rings and a crystal-laden piano. Full of personality and vivacious he played Liberace’s version of Rimsky-Korsikov Flight of the Bumblebees to the Tiger Rag with the signature style of playing fast, loud and adding many extra notes – just to up the challenge.

This may be a tribute show, but West Winter is charming and funny and truly entertaining in his own right. And when he played Beer Barrel Polka everyone sung and clapped along.

The Liberace Museum itself is fascinating for the flamboyance. Between the two buildings that make up the museum complex, there’s a room with Liberace’s costumes – spangled, plumed, glittering – his collection of his antique and sometimes priceless pianos, his exotic cars, even a recreation of his lavish bedroom. Researchers and students can make an appointment to see the extensive collection of clippings and personal memorabilia. There’s a free shuttle service to and from several Las Vegas hotels running Tuesday through Sunday.

Read next page Las Vegas - Fremont Street Experience

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